The stock fan clutch cooling setup does a great job on our S54 engines, however sometimes it’s not enough. To add another layer to the situation, if your fan blades grenades inside your engine bay you can cause destruction to your hose, radiator, hood and other surrounding parts.
The N15 Design E46 M3 Electric Fan Mount is a great way to add a 16″ SPAL electric fan because it’s so easy to install. In addition, the AUX Fan Controller Mount (optional) allows you to retain the stock controller to run the fan on auto as an OEM style would. Don’t get intimidated of the crazy electric fan setups and the false “requirements” to run a fan controller. This one is truly easy to install.
Tools Required
- N15 Design E46 M3 Electric Fan Mount
- 16" SPAL fan or similar (SPAL 2024 16" Puller Fan 30102049 - $151.56)
- 4mm hex bit
- T25 torx bit
- 10mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 8mm wrench
- 32mm wrench
- Ratchet
- 3/16" drill bit
- Drill
- Wire stripper [amazon_link asins='B000OQ21CA' template='PriceLink' store='builjour-20' marketplace='US' link_id='ece54d1d-aff0-4bb8-8b56-740a4e811397']
- BMW Water Pump Pulley Locking Tool $25.95
- Coolant
- Funnel
❗ You don't need to remove the radiator for this job, however you'll need a special angle drill (or maybe even Dremel?) to make holes for the mount. I chose to take mine out only because I was already in the middle of another job.
Install Directions
1. Remove intake duct using needle nose pliers to remove all 4 clips.
2. Remove radiator fan shroud and fan.
2.2 Remove the 3 push pins holding the shield. There is one on top directly center, one driver and one passenger. Remove using pliers. I don’t have pictures of the passenger side of the shield because I don’t run that. This is a picture of the driver side shield.
❗ Be very careful when you remove the coolant expansion line from the upper radiator hose. It's a good idea to pull this so you don't damage the line when the radiator is moving around. This piece is very brittle!
2.3 There are a total of four T25 torx screws (one on each corner) and 2 plugs on the passenger side of the radiator/shroud. Unplug cables first, then remove the four screws. The passenger side top torx screw (pictured below) is longer than the others. Tape up plugs and set aside.
2.4 Remove passenger side lower screw.
2.5 Remove fan using the E46 M3 BMW Water Pump Pulley Locking Tool and a 32mm wrench. The fan clutch nut is reverse threaded. Lock in the water pump pulley and unscrew using the 32mm wrench. Spin the fan to unscrew a little faster, but make sure you don’t let the fan drop.
3. Remove radiator and drain coolant from lower radiator hose.
3.1 Remove the upper radiator hose as well.
4. Remove front pusher fan. I don’t have a detailed step with pictures for this part, but you’re going to need to remove your front bumper as well as your kevlar/aluminum bumper beam in order to access the front pusher.
5. Install OEM AUX Fan Controller.
5.1 Once the fan is out, you can locate the AUX Fan Controller.
5.2 Cut the brown and blue wires on the fan motor side.
5.3 Install the AUX Fan Controller on the bracket.
5.4 Cut the black and red wires on the 16″ SPAL fan right before the plug. Don’t cut it too short as you’ll need all of the wires.
5.5 Solder or crimp the wires.
Black to Brown
Blue to Red
5.6 Apply heat shrink.
6. Mount fan/bracket to radiator for drilling holes.
6.1 Align the fan to the passenger side of the radiator. It’s up to you on where to mount it, but I recommend the driver side because of the fan might hit the water pump.
6.2 Mark holes and drill. I used a 3/16″ drill bit.
6.3 Test fit the hardware and remove the bracket/fan once you’re done creating the mounting points.
7. Install radiator back in.
8. Install fan using supplied hardware.
8.1 Plug in the fan using the stock connector.
8.2 Tuck wiring away from the belts and water pump. I zip tied mine to the back of the fan case.
8.3 Add coolant inside the system if you chose to drain your radiator in Step 3.
8.4 Bleed the cooling system properly. During this procedure the fan should turn on.
I just installed my spal fan the same way, and it appears to always be on, even from startup. Should that be the case, or should it turn off periodically until it’s needed?
I had the same exact issue. The fan stayed on all the time and I ended up going back to OEM
We have a custom option for fan control curve which stops the fan from spinning at high speeds. It’s okay if it runs at low speeds, which it should.
I just installed my spal fan, and it’s always on. Is that normal, or is this an issue? I didn’t pay close enough attention to the oem aux fan.
So basically your deleting the clutch fan and using just the controller from the pusher fan and deleting the pushing fan assembly and using a new fan for main cooling and AC?
Would it be best to run 2 Fans ? One pusher, and one puller fan??
Is there a reason you not extend the AUX fan wiring to run top of the radiator instead of across it? Also, did you have any fit issues with the AUX controller and the AUX bracket? Mine did not line up and I’m only able to use two bolts. Thanks for this DIY.
I didn’t bother with extending the wiring because it’s zip tied to the back of the fan perfectly fine. I used the N15 mount with aux bracket so it fit 100%. Did you use N15 also?
Yes, I used the N15 bracket. Another question, my fan seem to stay on all the time. I did not think ti was supposed to do that. Does yours?
Thanks
No mine does not do that. Maybe the sensor got damaged during the process? It also strikes me with concern because you mentioned your AUX controller does not line up. Are you sure you’re using the correct fan controller unit?
So no main fan just an electric fan that only runs when the aux fan would normally run, i.e when you run the AC or when the engine temps exceed normal? Is that correct? Looks like a neat install and a nice clear write up
Yup exactly that. I was concerned since I was removing the pusher fan and going with only 1 puller, but I took it to the track and coolant temps were still right in the middle.
Yup exactly that. I was concerned since I was removing the pusher fan and going with only 1 puller, but I took it to the track and coolant temps were still right in the middle.
Did you keep your aux fan or are you running an aux fan delete? Are you having any problems with temps when stopped with AC on?
I deleted the AUX fan all together and the air is hitting the A/C condenser then straight to the radiator. I have not tested on a hot day, but so far driving around the street stopped at lights, etc. while the car is fully warmed up I don’t have any increase in temps. The real test will be sitting on grid at the track or in the pits after a long session. I will report back.
Hi Andrew, do you have any updates on these fans, I bought same fan and brackets but using oem brand new radiator. any over heating issues on summer time on stop and go traffic?
thanks for your input
Yeah! Traffic is fine. I even stopped after a track session in the pits and it was fine. The coolant temps stayed right in the middle!
thank you sir
Honestly I have not tested in stop and go traffic in the heat. I only do track driving where I’m either at speed or at the pits in heat for only a short period of time. So far I have not experienced any temp spikes, but I am hearing from other users that there is a temp spike during hot days in slow traffic while the AC is on. I recommend doing distilled water and Water Wetter or similar additive to cool down the system.
Did you do an aux fan delete or are you running this with the aux fan?
I also delete my AUX fan in the front. Sorry just seeing this…