11 BMW M Models and Their Lap Times at VIR
There’s been a slew of new generation BMW M models throughout the years and with progress there has been a trend with increasing chassis weight while packing more technology into these cars. But has that strategy really been successful when we compare the lap times of these newer M models? We take a look at a chart showing the progress of these cars with a recent test from Car & Driver’s Lightning Lap 2016.
Video: BMW M Performance Driving School
We spent a day at the BMW M Performance Driving School where we got to do timed auto cross in a BMW M4 Competition Package, instructional laps with a BMW F87 M2 & F80 M3, drag racing with a X6 M, M5 & M6 and a bonus instructor “drift” hot lap.
The BMW Performance Center provides a unique brand experience for everyone, from BMW owners, prospects to general BMW enthusiasts. We immerse participants in the BMW culture, and impart a greater understanding and appreciation of the Ultimate Driving Machine’s capabilities through driving and rider programs, as well as product training.
We Visited the BMW M Performance Driving School in Thermal, CA
We all dread those annoying newsletter sign up requests, but boy am I glad to be on BMW’s list because they invited me out to the BMW M Track Days event for a day full of driving. Basically for those of you not familiar with this program, BMW runs a paid driving program for anyone who wants to take part in a private track driving experience in their fleet of BMW M models including the new F87 M2. They have 3 locations throughout the states and we just happen to be only 2 hours away from one – BMW Performance Center West in Thermal, CA. This time around, BMW offered a complimentary #MTrackDays half day experience which included a timed autocross event in a M4 Competition Package, drag racing, instructional hot laps and a driving demo with a professional instructor. How can I refuse?
On the day we went, BMW ran 2 sessions. There was an 8AM and 2PM session. We got out bright and early for the 8AM. This is the main building where you check in and attend briefing. This time around they had a F82 M4 M Performance Safety Car along with 2 other M Performance-decked M3’s.
We checked in and sat around until everyone for the 8AM was here. They gave us these cool lanyards also.
This is where the briefing takes place. Before each session, everyone will go over a Powerpoint presentation, explained by a professional driving instructor, to go over a few basic driving techniques including hitting the apex, cause of over/understeer, vehicle specifications, track layout, etc. It’s about a 15 minutes presentation.
Oh, did I mention the snacks?
The view of South Palm Pits walking out from the main building.
After the presentation was done, we were split up into groups. Our group went straight for the timed auto cross in the F82 M4 Competition package.
Unfortunately I didn’t get any pictures of the auto cross, but I did get some of the M2’s waiting for us at the North Palm. The instructor went over a few details of the track and we quickly went out on track for some instructor-lead laps.
Here’s the F87 M2 we got into. This one was a bit different from the others. Can anyone spot the difference?
Holy shit the M2 is so fun to drive! This event was speed-restricted, but if you follow closely to the instructor’s M235i, he’ll start playing with you. I tailed him a bit and he started driving a little more aggressively. Ever since I drove this, I can’t stop thinking about it. It packs as much fun as an M235i, but drives more planted.
After the M2, we headed to South Palm where there were F80 M3s waiting for us. It’s so easy driving these cars at such a high level. The instructors really make you feel trusted in these cars and even encourage you to take it to M1 mode where the DSC doesn’t kick in as much. We did a few laps around the big track and finally by this point we were hungry.
After all 4 sessions were done, we headed over to a pop up tent where there was an i8 and a M4 GTS displayed out front.
The tent was holding a lunch meeting!
What are these carbon fiber boxes? Gifts?
Carbon fiber lunch box?!
During the lunch reception, they gave us a little thank you speech for all the attendees and unveiled the winners for the fastest auto cross lap times. Oddly enough, the fastest 3 drivers were in the same group as me and I actually came in 1st place. They gave me a $50 gas card to Shell along with this cool M keychain!
They gave everyone who attended a free gift bag with this cool BMW coffee mug inside.
I’ve been to a few of these driving events and the thing that separates BMW’s program are the instructors. Of course, the cars are the main reason why you’re here, but this is a driving school and you’re here to become a better driver. You can’t really learn and understand driving technique without actually experiencing it. And to experience it, you have to have the confidence to go out and drive at a high level. The instructors really let you get comfortable and drive at a high level. Of course, you have to know your limit and if the instructors do see you squirreling off the track, they will flag you and potentially kick you off the track for the rest of the day, but I was amazed at the level of comfort and freedom you’re put in at this “free” event. If you’re close to one of the three Performance Centers, I definitely recommend you check out the BMW M Track Days website to enroll in some classes, especially when they’re free!
Big SoCal Euro 2016 Event Coverage Photos
You have Bimmerfest for the BMW owners. There is Fastivus for the Volkswagen and Audi enthusiasts. Subiefest is for Subaru owners. And there's Big SoCal Euro. It's not just a make-specific meet and gathers thousands of enthusiasts for one big freaking European car show. That's what's so unique about this event and I decided to attend for the first time this year.
Euroklasse hosted two caravan rally points and one happened to be just 10 minutes from my house so we got up early morning and left to caravan from Orange County with about 100 cars. Personally I enjoy cruising with a caravan instead of trying to race down as fast as I can. There were a few of us that stuck together and we rolled down as a group. Seems like there are always groups of 328i's speeding down and acting a fool. Maybe they have something to prove to the M guys?
We got to Qualcomm Stadium around 11AM, a good three hours before the gates opened at 2PM. We were hungry so we went to McDonalds and had some food. After we finished eating and still had 2.5 hours left to kill, we were regretting going to so early with the cruise, but we ended up entering the lots anyways. Hundreds of cars were already gathered at the event. So many people came out early to setup tent and have some nice cold beverages.
GIAC Tuning was the main sponsor for the event and guess what car I saw first when I entered?
We saw Ayed from Kings Auto Body Shop, Euroklasse with their F80 widebody M3, VMR Wheels and Mike from Status Gruppe just to name a few.
TAG Motorsports was there to showoff a few of their always-stunning cars. They even brought out a very special Ferrari 488 GTB, but one of my favorites of the show was a black F82 M4 decked out with DINAN products.
When it was time to go we found this super clean Jet Black E46 M3 with Apex Arc-8 wheels. Apex Race Parts! Where you at? We could've setup a booth here!
Before we left the meet, we asked some of the local people about some photoshoot locations. We were trying to go for a sunset shoot, but we didn't make it in time. Nonetheless we got a few shots overlooking La Jolla cliffs and the pier down there. Here's a sneak peak at the shoot that we'll post in the upcoming days.
2016 Targa Trophy Euro vs JDM Festival - LA 2 Vegas
The 5th Annual Targa Trophy Euro vs JDM Festival - LA 2 Vegas took place on July 23, 2016 at Momo Motorsports headquarters in Los Angeles, CA and it was hotter than a Victoria Secret model in a sauna. We were probably the 3rd car that made it to the morning car show at The ID Agency so we were able to grab a few shots of people driving in.This isn't the Gumball Rally, but I gotta say the variety of exotics were not bad. We started out with some coffee next door at The Wheelhouse and watched the cars come in.
This clean Porsche 911 Carrera was one of the first ones out in the lot. Props to him!
We love Porsche's. And there we're a bunch of them at the meet. This Tiffany Blue GT3 was one of our favorites.
Then the squad of BMW's came in...
By 10 o'clock a lot of the drivers were in and the pre-rally festivities were in full effect. Registrants signed in the garage where a nice Momo Motorsports Ferrari sat inside with a Guards Red Porsche Cayman GT4 next to it.
There was a special showing of the 2017 Lexus LC500, which isn't in production yet.
Formula DRIFT champion driver Dai Yoshihara came with this Lexus RC F and yes, he drove in the rally!
Last, but not least, this one of a kind wide body BMW F80 M3 came to show.
And here's a bonus because we know ya'll love this. Here's a video of some of the drivers leaving the rally.
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Brake Fluids Review & Analysis
We don't want mushy brakes on the track, right? The following article explains our take on various brake fluids review separated into three tiers based on price point. Brake fluids have a maximum operating temperature; if this number is exceeded, your fluid will boil and braking pressure will cease to exist. Tip: If this ever happens, pump the brake pedal to generate some pressure and try to go straight even if it means going off course (if possible).
Brake fluid deterioration:
If moisture and/or water is introduced into the brake fluid, you can expect the maximum temperature the brake fluid can withstand to drop since water boils at a lower temperature than the brake fluid itself. So it is important to maintain your brake fluid at optimal life.
No brake line is perfect nor packaging so the life of brake fluid is always dwindling with moisture seeping in from various places. Once it boils, your brake fluid no longer has the properties that exerts enough pressure on the pistons. You will only want to use a DOT 4 rated fluid or DOT 5.1 which has the correct characteristics for a performance car. Use this brake fluid review guide to see what brake fluid would work best for you.
*DOT stands for department of transportation and often provides specifications and safety regulations for car part manufacturers to adhere by.
If you haven't already please read our brake fluid comparison guide. Below we offer our own recommendations and experiences with the many brake fluids on the market.
Definition terminology:
Wet Boiling Point - Temperature that brake fluid boils with moisture.
- The wet boiling point is more important than the dry boiling point as the latter is often tested in a lab under fresh brake fluid and ideal conditions. You want to look at how it performs with moisture, since without a doubt moisture is going to be introduced into your brake fluid over time. You can think of this measure as an average performance rating of your brake fluid.
Hygroscopicity - How likely/fast brake fluid will absorb water.
- This determines how often you will need to do a brake flush, or a complete change out of your brake fluid.
Dry Boiling Point - Temperature that brake fluid boils without moisture.
- Occasionally, some fluids are known to hold their dry boiling point longer than usual. This is usually due to lower hygroscopicity rating of their fluid.
Compressibility - How compressible the brake fluid is (Pedal feel).
- Fluids often compress more under higher temperatures. This means that while the brake fluid will perform its job, it can leave the pedal feeling rather spongy. You want a low compressibility at any temperature.
PH - How acidic the brake fluid is.
- You want something as close to neutral as possible, since you don’t want your brake system components to wear due to corrosion. Certain chemicals may increase the wet or dry boiling point however, at the expense of a higher PH which can prematurely wear out your brake system.
We designate 3 tiers of brake fluid from top performing to lowest performing. Here are some of the popular brake fluid brands used in amateur racing.
Tier 1 Brake Fluids ($70+ for 1L):
- Castrol SRF
- Endless RF-650
- Project Mu 335
- Torque RT700
- Brembo HTC 64T
(Higher Rating is Better)
Castrol SRF Review:
While Castrol SRF brake fluid performed well during track days, our pedals did feel spongy afterwards due to the compressibility of the fluid at higher temperatures. The brake pedal usually returns back to normal after a few hours and some cool down. We commonly see Castrol used for rally racing and racing series.
Endless RF650:
With Endless, we immediately noticed the stiff pedal which we like. Porsche owners have noted that Endless is the OE fluid for factory Porsche 911 GT3 Cup car. Endless fluid did not leave my brake pedal feeling spongy at all after a track day.
Torque RT700:
Torque RT700 is hard to find, but on paper, it is the best overall performing brake fluid with similar pedal feeling to Endless at a lower cost.
Project Mu 335:
We have boiled Project Mu 335 brake fluid before on a track day which resulted in a spongy pedal that did not firm back up even after cooldown period. Which is weird because by looking at the numbers it should outperform the Endless fluid. Maybe we didn't bleed it correctly. We found that one nice thing about Project Mu is that the fluid changes colors when it is boiled, making bleeding calipers easier.
Testing again 8/26/2019.
Brembo:
Brembo does not post specs, so we are a bit wary of using them as our choice of brake fluids but we are testing them out anyways. We believe that Brembo is a trusted company and have no reason to doubt their brake fluid isn't capable for racing. Fun fact: Brembo and Endless are the only two brake fluids used in F1.
Recommendation: Endless RF-650 (Compressibility) or Castrol SRF (Wet Boiling) or Torque RT700 (Overall - Hard to find)
Tier 2 Budget Brake Fluids ($20+ for 1L):
- Motul RB 600
- Motul RB 660
- Stoptech STR-660
- Stoptech STR-600
- ATE Super Blue/Type 200
- Brembo LCF 600
- OEM
(Higher Rating is Better)
Some at BuildJournal dislike Tier 2 fluids because we can potentially boil them at the track days. Some people had good results but most of the times the brake fluid boils. They are solid upgrades over the stock brake fluid, so you could give these fluids a try if you are still on OEM fluid and looking for a small upgrade.
Motul:
A couple years back when we were getting into the tracking, we remember there was one brand everyone was talking about getting: Motul. Specifically the Motul RBF 600. It is widely popular due to the larger distribution network. We picked ours up at the local Nissan dealership for crying out loud. We've had great experiences with the Motul RBF 600 and although we probably didn't run them near the boiling points, later on as we got more seat time in our cars we started boiling them. For me I remember going into Turn 11 at Auto Club Speedway Roval when all of a sudden my brakes felt mushy. Not a good feeling. And doesn't make me comfortable to really push the car and late brake.
Stoptech:
Stoptech STR660 is a very nice brake fluid for daily driving and occasional canyon run. Oscar runs this fluid in his father's Imola M3 and it performs very well in terms of price to performance and hygroscopicity. It has been a couple years since the last brake bleed and it still feels about 80-90% of the original performance. However, his father does not track his car.
ATE:
ATE Super Blue was the first brake fluid that most try out due to its unique blue dye and good feedback. It is a very good fluid however, we do not recommend it for the following reasons. It is no longer legally sold in the US due to its dye and it will stain your reservoir blue making it really hard to see the max and min marks. During track days we were able to boil it and as a result ran off the track. Usually after the track day, we find ourselves bleeding the calipers due to the mushy feel. Type 200 is the alternative Super Blue without the dye. Originally people switched between Super Blue and Type 200 so that they could see when new brake fluid was bled out.
Brembo LCF 600:
Andrew is testing this out at the moment.
OEM:
OEM felt great however after some time, the pedal would feel mushy. At the price point that BMW sells their brake fluid at...we would rather get Motul or StopTech
Recommendation: StopTech STR-660 ($ to Performance) or Brembo LCF 600 (Overall) or Motul RB 600 (Higher Wet Boiling)
Tier 3 Budget Brake Fluids ($5+ for 1L):
- Generic DOT 4
In case of emergency, you can use off the shelf brake fluid. However, you will ruin your brake fluid performance by shifting the numbers to the lowest denominator ($5 brake fluid). Check the mixture recommendation on our brake fluid comparison guide to ensure compatibility. I flushed my friend's car with the autozone special and it felts alright as fresh fluid will always feel better than old OEM fluid. After a few short months, the mushy feeling came back. Stick with Tier 2 and above brake fluids.
Recommendation: Do not buy.
Questions or suggestions? Comment below! Special Thanks to The Following People: Lorrie Ma (bCaHnIaCnKa @ M3Forum), Melony Gani, Allan Shen (xdaznboi)
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Ultimate Brake Fluid Review & Comparison Guide
What is the best brake fluid for track?
Brake fluid is one of the most important components of the braking system. The purpose of brake fluid is to exert pressure on the piston of the calipers to bring the subsequently mounted pads into contact with the rotors converting hydraulic energy to friction, heat and noise which slows down your car. Here we review 58 different brake fluids.
This is not a ranking chart since Dry Boiling and Wet Boiling might be of different importance to people. For daily drivers look at wet boiling points and for race car drivers who will bleed after every race look at Dry Boiling. Each fluid a maximum operating temperature; if this number is exceeded, your fluid will boil and braking pressure will cease to exist.
Brake Fluid Review
Below is a list of the top automobile DOT 4 fluids separated by manufacturer, model, wet boiling point, dry boiling point, mixing compatibility and price. BuildJournal does not recommend DOT 5 nor DOT 3 brake fluids. Check out Stoptech’s explanation on the different types of DOT. If you want more brake fluid analysis and recommendations please visit our brake fluid analysis & review guide.
Automobile Brake Fluid Chart
| Image | Brake Fluid | Wet Boil Temperature (F) | Dry Boil Temperature (F) | Okay to Mix? | Quantity (Oz) | Price/Oz | $ |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
 | Castrol React SRF | 518 | 608 | Yes | 33.8 | 1.77 | $59.99 |
 | Torque RT700 | 439 | 683 | Yes | 16.9 | 2.01 | $33.95 |
 | Project Mu G-Four 335 | 430 | 635 | No | 33.8 | 1.77 | $59.95 |
 | Endless RF 650 | 424 | 622 | Yes | 16.9 | 2.49 | $40.00 |
 | Neo Synthetics Super Dot 610 | 421 | 598 | Yes | 16 | 1.56 | $24.99 |
 | AFCO HTX | 421 | 618 | Yes | 16.9 | 1.18 | $19.99 |
 | Comar GS610 | 417 | 626 | Yes | 16.9 | 0.89 | $15.11 |
 | Wilwood EXP | 417 | 626 | Yes | 16.9 | 1.05 | $17.69 |
 | Bel-Ray Racing | 410 | 580 | Yes | 12 | 1.25 | $14.99 |
 | Maxima SYN High-Temp | 410 | 600 | Yes | 12 | 1.25 | $14.95 |
 | Gulf RF800 | 401 | 581 | Yes | 16.9 | 0.98 | $16.58 |
 | Ferodo Formula | 401 | 590 | Maybe | 16.9 | 1.42 | $23.95 |
 | Gulf RF1000 | 401 | 617 | Yes | 16.9 | 1.06 | $17.96 |
 | Motul RBF 600 | 401 | 594 | Yes | 16.9 | 1.06 | $17.99 |
 | Motul RBF 660 | 400 | 617 | Yes | 16.9 | 1.6 | $26.99 |
 | AP Racing Radi-Cal R2 | 399.2 | 593.6 | No (Magnesium) | 16.9 | 1.18 | $19.95 |
 | AP Racing Radi-CAL R4 | 399.2 | 644 | Yes | 16.9 | 1.77 | $29.99 |
 | AP Racing Radi-Cal R3 | 399.2 | 644 | Yes | 16.9 | 1.78 | $30.00 |
 | Pagid RBF | 399 | 626 | Yes | 16.9 | 1.46 | $24.60 |
 | IPone X Trem | 399 | 622 | Maybe | 16.9 | 1.1 | $18.62 |
 | Brembo LCF 600+ | 399 | 601 | Yes | 16.9 | 1.24 | $20.97 |
 | ATE Super Blue | 396 | 536 | Yes | 33.8 | 1.83 | $18.50 |
 | Prospeed RS683 | 394 | 583 | Yes | 16.9 | 1.48 | $24.99 |
 | Ferodo Super Formula | 392 | 622 | Yes | 16.9 | 1.12 | $18.99 |
 | ATE Type 200 | 388 | 536 | Yes | 33.8 | 0.41 | $13.95 |
 | EBC BF 307+ | 386 | 586 | Yes | 16.9 | 0.74 | $12.44 |
 | Tilton TSR-1 | 383 | 622 | Yes | 8.5 | 1.4 | $11.90 |
 | Motorex Racing Fluid | 383 | 572 | Yes | 16.9 | 1.52 | $25.75 |
 | StopTech STR 600 | 383 | 594 | Yes | 16.9 | 1 | $16.95 |
 | StopTech STR 660 | 383 | 622 | Yes | 16.9 | 1.65 | $27.95 |
 | Fuchs Silkolene Pro | 383 | 572 | Yes | 16.9 | 1.27 | $21.52 |
 | Tilton TBR-1 | 383 | 590 | Yes | 8.5 | 0.92 | $7.86 |
 | Performance RH665 | 383 | 617 | Yes | 16.9 | 1.77 | $29.99 |
 | Amsoil Series 600 | 379 | 580 | Maybe | 12 | 1.17 | $14.05 |
 | Endless S-Four | 369 | 563 | Yes | 33.8 | 1.01 | $34.00 |
 | Ferodo ESP DOT4 | 361 | 516 | Yes | 16.9 | 1.55 | $26.20 |
 | ATE SL.6 | 338 | 509 | Maybe | 33.8 | 0.38 | $12.95 |
 | Pentosin DOT 4 LV | 338 | 509 | Maybe | 33.8 | 0.41 | $13.99 |
 | Brembo Sport.EVO 500+ | 336 | 520 | Maybe | 8.5 | 0.88 | $7.50 |
 | Maxima DOT 4 | 332 | 510 | Yes | 12 | 0.58 | $6.95 |
 | EBC DOT 4 | 329 | 500 | Yes | 8.8 | 0.34 | $2.99 |
 | Pentosin Super DOT 4 | 329 | 509 | Yes | 16.9 | 0.47 | $7.99 |
 | Motorex DOT 4 | 329 | 0 (Unknown) | Maybe | 8.5 | 1.18 | $9.99 |
 | ATE SL | 329 | 500 | Yes | 33.8 | 0.41 | $13.95 |
 | Ipone Brake DOT 4 | 320 | 518 | Maybe | 16.9 | 1.20 | 20.36 |
 | Ferodo DOT 4 | 316 | 478 | Yes | 8.5 | 0.7 | $5.99 |
 | Castrol DOT 4 | 311 | 509 | Yes | 33.8 | 0.5 | $16.99 |
 | Fuchs Silkolene | 311 | 446 | Yes | 16.9 | 0.41 | $6.89 |
 | Gunk DOT 4 | 311 | 446 | Yes | 32 | 0.25 | $7.99 |
 | Gulf Super DOT 4 | 311 | 446 | Maybe | 16.9 | 2.99 | $50.64 |
 | Valvoline DOT 3 & 4 | 311 | 480 | Yes | 12 | 0.37 | $4.49 |
 | Prestone DOT 4 | 311 | 510 | Yes | 12 | 0.32 | $3.87 |
 | Ultra Lite Hot Fluid | 0 (Unknown) | 600 | Yes | 32 | 1.09 | $34.99 |
 | Drag Specialties DOT 4 | 0 (Unknown) | 470 | Maybe | 12 | 0.5 | $5.95 |
 | Galfer Super DOT 4 | 0 (Unknown) | 509 | Maybe | 16.9 | 0.45 | $7.65 |
 | Brembo HTC 64T | 0 (Unknown) | 635 | Yes | 16.9 | 2.01 | $33.97 |
 | AFCO HT | 0 (Unknown) | 500 | Yes | 12 | 0.5 | $5.99 |
How Fluid Deteriorates Over Time
If moisture and/or water is introduced into the fluid, you can expect the maximum temperature the fluid can withstand to drop since water boils at a lower temperature than the fluid itself. So it is important to maintain your fluid at optimal life. No brake line is perfect nor packaging so the life of fluid is always dwindling with moisture seeping in from various places. Once your fluid boils, it no longer has the properties that exerts enough pressure on the pistons. You will only want to use a DOT 4 rated fluid which has the correct characteristics for a performance car.
*DOT stands for department of transportation and often provides specifications and safety regulations for car part manufacturers to adhere by.
Wet Boiling Point – Temperature that fluid boils with moisture.
- The wet boiling point is more important than the dry boiling point as the latter is often tested in a lab under fresh fluid and ideal conditions. You want to look at how it performs with moisture, since without a doubt moisture is going to be introduced into your fluid over time. You can think of this measure as an average performance rating of your fluid.
Dry Boiling Point – Temperature that fluid boils without moisture.
- Occasionally, some fluids are known to hold their dry boiling point longer than usual. This is usually due to lower hygroscopicity rating of their fluid.
Mixing – Compatibility with other products.
- Some fluids you can mix with others. Usually the boiling point will revert to the fluid with the worst characteristics. Sometimes fluid does not mix well with others and you should avoid mixing to prevent a failure.
Brake Fluid Recycling
We take if very seriously to recycle and properly dispose your old (and new) brake fluid. We encourage everyone to take the time to do so. There is a great article on YourMechanic.com on how to properly dispose brake fluid.
Brake Bias Chart for BMW E46 M3
Let's take a dive into brake bias. Just because you have a bigger caliper, doesn't necessarily mean that you have more stopping power. The concept of brake bias or brake balance is important to understand because it explains the importance of balancing the front and rear brake distribution under load.
Basically, if your front calipers are working too hard and the rear lifts up, you lose traction in the rear, thus braking efficiency is sacrificed and weight balance is off. You can use compression settings if you have them on double adjustable coilovers to dial this out. Suspension and braking work hand in hand with one another. As popular as big brake kits are with the E46 M3 crowd, often times we see improper brake setups especially with those who are retrofitting their calipers from other vehicle models. Here we explain the recommended brake bias for different vehicles and calipers.
Update: Calculator with latest equations and data (Courtesy of CLAWHAMM3R on m3forum)
Brake Bias on E46 M3 with MK60-based Master Cylinder
(Front: 25mm, Rear: 22mm) (post-09/2002) (1:54.1 Stock Bias - 60.6%F 39.4%R)
Brake Bias on E46 M3 with DSC3-based Master Cylinder
(Front: 25mm, Rear: 20mm) (pre-09/2002) (1.27:1 Stock Brake Bias - 56.0%F 44.0%R)
Dimensions required: (default E46 M3 specifications listed in parentheses)
- Master cylinder piston(s) and Sizes (MK60-based vehicles, >09/2002: 25mm front, 22mm rear) (MK20-based vehicles, <09/2002: 25mm front, 20mm rear)
- Pedal ratio (3:1 mechanical lever)
- Coefficient of friction of pad material, front and rear (0.36)
- Brake pad width, front and rear (Front: 61mm; Rear: 54mm)
- Caliper types [fixed/floating] (floating)
- Number and sizes of all pistons in the brake caliper (Front: 1 piston, floating, 60mm; Rear Standard: 1 piston, floating, 42mm; Rear ZCP/CSL: 1 piston, floating, 46mm)
- Rotor diameter (Front Standard: 325mm; Front ZCP/CSL: 345mm; Rear: 328mm)
Constants:
- pi = 3.141592653589793238462643383279502884197169399375 10582097494459230781640628620899862803482534211706 79821480865132823066470938446095505822317253594081 28481117450284102701938521105559644622948954930381 96442881097566593344612847564823378678316527120190 91456485669...
Variables:
- Leg Force = 150 pounds
The first element necessary to get started is the individual line pressures generated for both the front and rear pistons within the master cylinder, obtained by Equation 1:
Equation 1: P = Fpedal / Apiston
- P = Pressure
- Fpedal = Force due to pedal operation
- Apiston = Area of master cylinder piston
The Force exerted by the pedal is obtained by Equation 2:
Equation 2: Fpedal = Fleg · Ratiopedal
- Fpedal = Force exerted by pedal operation
- Fleg = Force exerted on pedal from leg
- Ratiopedal = Distance from exertion of leg force to pivot point divided by distance from pivot point to master cylinder piston actuator
The Area of the master cylinder piston is obtained by Equation 3:
Equation 3: Apiston = pi · rpiston2
- Apiston = Area of master cylinder piston
- rpiston = radius of master cylinder piston
Equation 4 is used to determine the radius from a given diameter:
Equation 4: rpiston = Dpiston / 2
- rpiston = radius of master cylinder piston
- Dpiston = diameter of master cylinder piston
Brake torque generated at the wheel, individually Tf and Tr, is given by Equation 5:
Equation 5: T{f,r} = P · Atotal · Reffective · cF
- T{f,r} = Torque at wheel
- P = Pressure
- Atotal = Combined area of all pistons within a caliper
- Reffective = Effective radius of pad placement to rotor
- cF = Coefficient of friction of pad material
The total combined effective area of the caliper pistons is obtained by utilizing Equations 6, 7, 8 and 9 based on their respective caliper configurations (Floating: single-piston, Floating: 2-piston, Fixed: 4-piston, Fixed: 6-piston, Fixed: 8-piston):
For a Floating: single piston caliper:
Equation 6: Atotal = 2 · pi · rpiston2
- Atotal = Total combined effective area
- rpiston = radius of piston *
* - refer to Equation 4 to obtain radius from diameter)
For a Floating: 2-piston and Fixed: 4-piston caliper:
Equation 7: Atotal = 2 · pi · (rpiston_12 + rpiston_22)
- Atotal = Total combined effective area
- rpiston_1 = radius of piston 1 *
- rpiston_2 = radius of piston 2 *
* - refer to Equation 4 to obtain radius from diameter)
For a Fixed: 6-piston caliper:
Equation 8: Atotal = 2 · pi · (rpiston_12 + rpiston_22 + rpiston_32)
- Atotal = Total combined effective area
- rpiston_1 = radius of piston 1 *
- rpiston_2 = radius of piston 2 *
- rpiston_3 = radius of piston 3 *
* - refer to Equation 4 to obtain radius from diameter
For a Fixed: 8-piston caliper:
Equation 9: Atotal = 2 · pi · (rpiston_12 + rpiston_22 + rpiston_32 + rpiston_42)
- Atotal = Total combined effective area
- rpiston_1 = radius of piston 1 *
- rpiston_2 = radius of piston 2 *
- rpiston_3 = radius of piston 3 *
- rpiston_4 = radius of piston 4 *
* - refer to Equation 4 to obtain radius from diameter
The effective radius is calculated using Equation 10:
Equation 10: Reffective = rrotor - (wpad / 2)
- Reffective = effective radius of rotor
- rrotor = radius of rotor *
- wpad = width of brake pad **
* - refer to Equation 4 to obtain radius from diameter
** - width of brake pad is an estimate of the distance the center of the piston(s) from the rotor's diameter and may not be the most precise way to gauge application of force (Noted by IntelOne)
Finally, Equation 11 gives the ratio of the front brake torque to that of the rear and is an index reflecting overall front:rear bias:
Equation 11: Bias = Tf / Tr
- Bias = index representing front to rear wheel brake torque ratio
- Tf = Brake torque generated at front wheel
- Tr = Brake torque generated at rear wheel
Equation 12 is used to convert from a ratio to a percent front:rear bias:
Equation 12:
% Biasfront = (Tf · 100%) / (Tf + Tr)
% Biasrear = (Tr · 100%) / (Tf + Tr)*
- % Biasfront = Bias percentage at front wheel
- % Biasrear = Bias percentage at rear wheel
- Tf = Torque generated at front wheel
- Tr = Torque generated at rear wheel
*alternately; one bias percentage can be calculated by subtracting the other from 100%
Courtesy of p0lar @ M3forum.net
Alignment Specs Adjustment Guide for Your E46 M3
Here's a one stop alignment specs adjustment guide you've been searching for. If you ever asked "What kind of alignment should I get for my E46 M3?", you came to the right place. Here are some recommended tire sizes and alignments for your E46 M3 in a variety of scenarios. These are meant to be used as a cheat sheet guide and may differ from different suspension setups or preferences. But generally these will get you in the ballpark so you can just fine tune by yourself.
Alignment Specs Basics
- Rear Toe In gives you high speed stability at a cost of tire wear
- Camber does not affect tire wear, toe does
- Front toe out +.05 may help with the inherent lazy center feel and quicker turn in for E46 M3 at a cost of additional tire wear.
| Type of Driving | Front Camber (Degrees) | Rear Camber (Degrees) | Front Toe (Inches) | Rear Toe Total (Inches) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Stock | -1.0 | -2.0 | -0.18 | -0.23 |
| Sporty | -2.0 | -1.8 | 0 | -0.15 |
| Autocross | -2.5 | -2.0 | -0.06 | -0.08 |
| Track Day - Moderate | -3.5 | -2.5 | 0 | -0.08 |
| Track Day - Aggressive | -4.0 | -2.7 | +0.06 | -0.25 |
Tire and Height
- Square setup (same size) allows you to rotate your wheels
- Square setup will experience tram lining (car follows the imperfections of road)
- Stagger setup will tend to understeer
| Type of Driving | Front Tires | Rear Tires | Front Height (in from Center Cap) | Rear Height (in from Center Cap) |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Economical | 235/35/18 | 265/35/18 | 14 | 14.5 |
| Sporty | 245/35/18 | 265/35/18 | 13.5 | 13.5 |
| Autocross | 265/35/18 | 265/35/18 | 13 | 13 |
| Track Day | 275/35/18 | 275/35/18 | 12.5 | 12.5 |
Rebound & Compression
- Rebound - Available on Single Adjustable Coilovers
- Compression - Available on Double Adjustable Coilovers
| Type of Driving | Front Rebound | Rear Rebound | Front Compression | Rear Compression |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Economical | Stock | Stock | Stock | Stock |
| Sporty | 60% | 60% | Stock | Stock |
| Autocross | 50% | 80% | 70% | 80% |
| Track Day | 80% | 75% | 95% | 85% |
Spring Rates
| Type of Driving | Front Spring Rates (in/lbs) | Rear Spring Rate (in/lbs) |
|---|---|---|
| Economical | 143 | 345 - 685 (Progressive) |
| Sporty | 450 | 500 |
| Autocross | 500 | 550 |
| Track Day | 700 | 800 |
| Splitter + Wing | 900 | 1000 |
Additional Suspension Tuning
If you are interested in further tuning your shocks, please take a look at our Fine Tune Suspension and Shocks Guide. Remember, keep your bushings in tip top shape! The E46 M3 has many bushings including Rear Trail Arm Bushings (RTAB) which I recommend to replace every 50,000 miles and the Front Control Arm Bushings (FCAB) and Rear Control Arm Bushings (RCAB) to replace every 100,000 miles. Have an alignment to suggest or have questions about fitment? Comment Below!
Bimmerfest 2016 presented by ESS Tuning Video Coverage
The long waited Bimmerfest is back in SoCal and it returns to Auto Club Speedway for 2016. As expected there were hundreds if not thousands of BMW owners that gathered for the show and track spectacle. We didn't do much of a photo coverage this year, because we thought a video would be better! So here is the brand new video for the Bimmerfest 2016 presented by ESS Tuning coverage. We got burnt in the process, but I think it was well worth it. Watch the video now!
5th Annual Targa Trophy German Car Festival at HRE Wheels [Photo Coverage]
I still remember the first car cruise I went to. It was back a few years ago when I had my Subaru Legacy GT and I was invited to a Subiefest meet up in Willow Springs. It was a pretty big gathering with about 300+ cars signed up to attend and all 300 cars were setting up check point to caravan up to the event.
I remember waking up before sun rise, showing up to the parking lot when it was pitch dark, eating some breakfast and then heading out in a massive squad of Subarus just dominating the highway and roads. It's a pretty cool feeling partaking in such a monstrous gathering while driving in a big group, giving you a sense of comradery. Of course, the photos are always pretty epic to see too. That Subiefest cruise was probably the best experiences I've had with cars and this past event brought that same feeling back to me.
Waking up at 6:30am after a long night of drinking made me think twice about actually going to this event. After many minutes of contemplating, I finally decided to open the curtains and get my ass up to barley make it on time. The time it took me to get out of bed and walk out the door was exactly 15 minutes. My friend and I rolled up to the spot and the first thing we noticed were two mean-ass looking pair of Mercedes-AMG GT S Coupes sitting next to each other, followed by an authentic R34 Skyline. At this point, I thank myself for not snoozing my alarm and actually getting up for the cruise.
At 7:30, everyone embarked on the supposed-to-be one hour and a half drive, which ended up being only 45 minutes, to HRE Wheels in Vista, CA. It was pretty epic as we started to roll out of the lot and embark on the 70 mile journey. For a moment, we were all in single file line pulled over on the side of the road to gather everyone. If someone were to hit us all, it would've been a $2 million mistake. Fortunately, that didn't happen.
Once we got onto the highway, it got even more epic for me because I've never been in a pack where a AMG GT S is in my rear view mirror, an R8 next to me and a R34 Skyline in front of me.
We finally pulled up to HRE Wheels, but took us about 20 minutes to get to the entrance. Why? Because Targa Trophy. There was a massive amount of cars rolling in. We were basically dead stopped in line so we went out to grab a few pictures.
Once we got inside, we saw the parking lot filled with all kinds of exotics from Ferraris to Lamborghinis, classis like E30 M3s and air-cooled Porsches. For the cars in the Targa Trophy rally, the most common make was Porsche. Porsches EVERYWHERE!
Of course there were plenty of BMW M4s, GTRs, Ferraris and Lamborghinis. Walking around the main event area was like walking around the LA convention center. People were everywhere and it wasn't because the floor space was small, there were cars and people everywhere. It was a pretty huge turnout. Everywhere you look there were people with cameras and I swear that damn drone though. I felt like it was following me everywhere.
We stayed around for a few hours and decided it was time to go eat some pho. Mmm. Because that's what I eat when I'm hungover. As we walked out, I took a snaps of the BMWs in the general lot. Most of them I recognized, but there were a few I've never seen. And of course, my car. I found a super clean white E46 M3 and decided it was only proper to do a shoot with him.
It's a bummer I didn't get to attend the rally, but it was a fun day nonetheless. Already looking forward to the next cruise!
Liqui Moly MoS2 Anti Friction Will Save Your S54 M3 Rod Bearings
Let me tell you why I praise and continue to encourage all E46 M3 owners to treat their S54 engine with the Liqui Moly MoS2 Anti Friction lubricant. To put it simply, it greatly extends the life of your rod bearings, which is a costly procedure to replace. And this oil treatment works.
Oil sample analysis results will show that it is extremely effective. The patented liquid additive formulated by Liqui Moly, also known as Molybdenum-Disulfide, greatly reduces friction and wear that occurs every time you drive your car. Liqui Moly MoS2 is suitable for all petrol, diesel and LPG engines, safe and effective for all turbocharged and supercharged engines. Simply add with your engine oil. One 300ml bottle can treat during one oil change cycle.
The S54 Rod Bearing Issue
BMW posted a service action to recall all S54 engines for the connecting rod bearings failure. The procedure includes replacing the rod bearings due to excessive wear that may lead to engine failure. In worst cases, complete loss of engine. Here is the BMW SA below:
SUBJECT
Service Action: E46 M3 S54 Connecting Rod Bearings Replacement
MODEL
E46: M3 coupe/convertible with S54B32 produced from 02/12/2001 up to 05/22/2003
SITUATION
The connecting rod bearings installed in M3 coupe/convertible vehicles produced from February 2001 through May 2003 were not manufactured to BMW quality standards. As a result, the connecting rodbearings are susceptible to overheating and subsequent premature failure if vehicles are driven at higher engine speeds over an extended timeframe. This condition will cause a total engine failure.
A Service Action will be conducted on those vehicles to replace the connecting rod bearings. Additionally, the engine control module will be programmed with the latest software. Customers will be mailed letters notifying them of the Service Action shortly (copy of letter, Q & A list are attached).
The M3 vehicles produced from October 2001 through February 2002, which already had the Connecting Rod Bearings/Oil Pump Campaign 356 (SIB11 02 03) previously performed, are also affected by this Service Action.
Solution to the S54 Rod Bearing Issue
This was a recall by BMW so if you took your car to get this SA performed, they would’ve replaced the connecting rod bearings and reprogrammed the DME control module. Rod bearings are parts that experience normal wear and tear and are recommended to be replaced every 100k miles even after the initial replacement. For those going the aftermarket route, WPC treated stock rod bearings with ARP bolts is a common procedure. Look at the beautiful crank journals below at 165k miles!
Rod bearing replacement is an extremely intensive procedure that requires good knowledge of the car. I highly recommend Kevin (Kaiv on m3forum).
Rod bearing replacement is not for the faint of heart. I highly recommend Kevin (Kaiv on m3forum).
Treatment for Rod Bearing
Once you’ve replaced your rod bearings, this is where the Liqui Moly agent comes into play. Since rod bearing wear is still a concern, it is highly recommended to treat with MoS2 to decrease friction and metallic wear. Although metal surfaces may appear polished and smooth, under a microscope you can see all the abrasion caused by all the tiny metal contaminants in the engine oil. MoS2 chemical agents will repair the abrasion caused by oil contaminants by chemically bonding to the high points on the damaged metallic surface, therefore reducing further damage. In fact, the recommended WPC treatment for rod bearings uses MoS2 as a medium to embed.
The Evidence
Case #1: We recently pulled apart the rod bearings for TR4CKM3‘s E46 M3 to replace with new ones. Huge thanks to Kaiv (Kevin) in San Diego! He was super professional and provided most of the pictures that you see below. At the time, the rod bearings had roughly 100k miles of wear and the service was performed as preventative maintenance. His engine was treated with Liqui Moly MoS2 for almost the entire life of rod bearings and showed minimal wear. Basically, it wasn’t really necessary at the time to replace even after a few hard track days.
If you need a rod bearing replacement done, please contact Kevin (Kaiv on M3forum.net). He seriously had the best prices in town and knows what he’s doing.
Looking for copper here..
Just a tiny bit on the edges.
Everything looks good under here.
Here we see Kevin putting in the new WPC treated rod bearings...
As reference here is what a bad rod bearing close to failure looks like (Courtesy of EAS):
If you need a rod bearing replacement done, please contact Kevin (Kaiv on M3forum.net). He seriously had the best prices in town and was very professional.
Case #2: Here is an oil sample analysis for my car which has about 100k miles worth of driving on the bearings. Bearing recall was performed around 40k miles. The first oil sample analysis was done at 140k miles and reports indicated higher than average copper wear which means the rod bearings were wearing. Copper is at 20 compared to an average of 14. Casey at RaceWerkz recommended performing frequent oil changes and to continue monitoring oil samples using Blackstone.
I decided to use the MoS2 treatment for every oil change and monitored my oil every other oil change. Post-MoS2 treatment oil analysis showed Copper went back down for both reports!
After looking at these reports, I decided to continue treating my bearings with Liqui Moly MoS2 for a couple thousand more miles. Rod bearing maintenance is a very costly procedure, so this little $8 bottle of treatment is a good remedy to keep my wallet (and car) happy for a few more months. Since I’m approaching the 180k miles mark, I’ll be doing the rod bearing replacements very soon. I’ll be going with WPC treated stock rod bearings.
Update 11/10/2016: We talked to Liqui Moly representatives and they recommend their newest product Ceratec which has updated technology.
Oscar (TR4CKM3) has been using Liqui Moly Ceratec in 30k Miles intervals with good results. He says that Ceratec last longer between oil changes.