Andrew

The stock fan clutch cooling setup does a great job on our S54 engines, however sometimes it’s not enough. To add another layer to the situation, if your fan blades grenades inside your engine bay you can cause destruction to your hose, radiator, hood and other surrounding parts.

The N15 Design E46 M3 Electric Fan Mount is a great way to add a 16″ SPAL electric fan because it’s so easy to install. In addition, the AUX Fan Controller Mount (optional) allows you to retain the stock controller to run the fan on auto as an OEM style would. Don’t get intimidated of the crazy electric fan setups and the false “requirements” to run a fan controller. This one is truly easy to install.

1. Remove intake duct using needle nose pliers to remove all 4 clips.

2. Remove radiator fan shroud and fan.

2.2 Remove the 3 push pins holding the shield. There is one on top directly center, one driver and one passenger. Remove using pliers. I don’t have pictures of the passenger side of the shield because I don’t run that. This is a picture of the driver side shield.

2.3 There are a total of four T25 torx screws (one on each corner) and 2 plugs on the passenger side of the radiator/shroud. Unplug cables first, then remove the four screws. The passenger side top torx screw (pictured below) is longer than the others. Tape up plugs and set aside.

2.4 Remove passenger side lower screw.

2.5 Remove fan using the E46 M3 BMW Water Pump Pulley Locking Tool and a 32mm wrench. The fan clutch nut is reverse threaded. Lock in the water pump pulley and unscrew using the 32mm wrench. Spin the fan to unscrew a little faster, but make sure you don’t let the fan drop.

3. Remove radiator and drain coolant from lower radiator hose.

3.1 Remove the upper radiator hose as well.

4. Remove front pusher fan. I don’t have a detailed step with pictures for this part, but you’re going to need to remove your front bumper as well as your kevlar/aluminum bumper beam in order to access the front pusher.

5. Install OEM AUX Fan Controller.

5.1 Once the fan is out, you can locate the AUX Fan Controller.

5.2 Cut the brown and blue wires on the fan motor side.

5.3 Install the AUX Fan Controller on the bracket.

5.4 Cut the black and red wires on the 16″ SPAL fan right before the plug. Don’t cut it too short as you’ll need all of the wires.

5.5 Solder or crimp the wires.

Black to Brown

Blue to Red

5.6 Apply heat shrink.

6. Mount fan/bracket to radiator for drilling holes.

6.1 Align the fan to the passenger side of the radiator. It’s up to you on where to mount it, but I recommend the driver side because of the fan might hit the water pump.

6.2 Mark holes and drill. I used a 3/16″ drill bit.

6.3 Test fit the hardware and remove the bracket/fan once you’re done creating the mounting points.

7. Install radiator back in.

8. Install fan using supplied hardware.

8.1 Plug in the fan using the stock connector.

8.2 Tuck wiring away from the belts and water pump. I zip tied mine to the back of the fan case.

8.3 Add coolant inside the system if you chose to drain your radiator in Step 3.

8.4 Bleed the cooling system properly. During this procedure the fan should turn on.

The intake air temperature (IAT) sensor is integrated into the E46 M3 stock MAF location inside the intake tube and although the OEM location works, it is prone to heat soak which will allow the ECU to pull timing resulting in power loss. We made this IAT relocation kit so we can move the sensor location to a location outside the MAF that is optimized for air flow thus the engine is less likely to pull timing due to false temperature readings.

The install is fairly simple, but you will need to solder two wires together. There are some vendors that sell a plug and play harness so if you don’t want to cut and solder your stock MAF wires you can purchase their kit.

1. Remove MAF and locate the wires numbered 1-5. Remove rubber grommet.

2. Cut and remove some of the plastic wiring loom with scissors then cut Wire #1 about 2″ down from the plug.

3. Wire #1: using the wire stripper, expose about 1/2″ of bare wire on the ECU side of the wire. (opposed to the plug side)

4. Wire #3: using a razor blade, skin and expose about 1/2″ of bare wire; do not cut.

5. Wire #3: use a razor blade to split the wires in half creating a gap to insert IAT wire.

6. Get one of the IAT sensor wire (doesn’t matter which wire) and insert a heat shrink tube. We will heat shrink once it’s soldered.

6. Split the ends of the Wire #1 and the IAT wire to mate for soldering.

7. Twist the wires.

8. Get the other IAT wire and insert into the hole you created in Wire #3 in step 5. You don’t need to split the wires on the IAT wire.

8. Twist the wires.

9. Your wires are ready for soldering. Solder both wires.

How to Solder: Watch Video

11. Use a lighter to heat shrink the tube for Wire #1.

12. Use electric tape to wrap Wire #3.

13. Tape and heat shrink the exposed (plug side) Wire #1.

14. Insert rubber grommet and install on MAF sensor.

Okay so now that we have the IAT sensor wired up, we need to install the IAT sensor somewhere. I’m leaving this step open ended because the IAT installation depends on which intake you’re running.

Personally for me I’m running the Eventuri intake so I decided to drill a hole in the intake bracket right below the filter. This works perfect because my PSDesigns Headlight Duct kit allows air right into the filter and IAT sensor.

I assume most of you are running the stock box. The IAT sensor can be installed on the lower half of the intake box right above the drain outlet. All you need is a 7/16″ drill bit to create a hole in the box. M3support.net user “s54smg2” did an excellent write up for the IAT relocation on S54 intake.

Instantly remove your front bumper cover in seconds! We’ve released a custom mounting solution for the Pop Latch Quick Release and we’re going to show you how to do the install. The studs use the factory hex stud location on Kevlar bumper supports for an easy bolt-on installation. Oh also, we now offer custom paint matched latches as an add-on option!

1. Remove front bumper

2. Locate the outer hex stud on the Kevlar bumper

3. Remove stud using a hex drive

4. Remove thread insert and install new stud from Pop Latch kit

The Kevlar bumper has a hollow inside and you can get to the opening through the immediate sides of the support beam. Once the stud is inserted, you must back the stud towards the back and lock it down with the supplied washer/nut. The back of the stud should be almost touching the backside of the hollow bumper beam.

For Aluminum bumper carriers, you will be required to drill a hole through the carrier.

It is up to you to select which area to create the hole for the stud.

This is the back side of the Aluminum carrier.

5. Tape up the stud and expose the tip, then apply paint or wet marker

Here we are going to line up the bumper and mark the inside of the bumper to create a spot for the pilot drill bit.

6. Place a strip of tape on the side of the bumper so the paint/marker can leave a mark, push bumper in and create mark

When you push in the bumper, do not push too hard or you may cause paint cracks on the bumper.

7. Drill pilot hole

8. Using a 13/16 bit or step drill create a cutout on the bumper

9. Insert the Pop Latch Quick Release into bumper and secure with locking nut

10. Break off the outer portion of the bumper foam support (optional)

If you choose to keep the full foam piece, you will have to drill out the foam to make room for the latch. The bumper is fully supported without the side pieces.

11. Repeat the same steps for the other side

The stock E46 M3 S54 Bosch fuel injector static flow rate is rated at 260 cubic centimeters (cc) per minute at 43 PSI. The purpose of taking out my injectors were to clean it since a buddy of mine had a flow rate of 150 cc on his injectors after 150K+ miles of usage. Little did I know my injectors were going to be worse! If your car is in the 100K range, I would consider cleaning the injectors. Scroll down through the article to see what that process was like for me, but first we’ll need to take out the injectors. So here is a little DIY for removing and installing injectors.

If you’re dealing with any of the following symptoms, as stated from injectorrx.com, you most likely have dirty, clogged or leaky injectors.

Get your injectors cleaned! There are several injector cleaning companies you can find. I chose to go to RC Fuel Injection in Torrance, CA since they’re relatively local to my area. They clean, balance and calibrate your injectors to new-like state including new o-rings. They completed my cleaning in less than 24 hours and I was able to pickup the very next day after I dropped off. They also include a test sheet to show the old and new flow rate. Scroll below to see the print out for my injectors. You’d be surprised.

1. Remove cabin filter and strut bar

1.1 Remove 4 nuts holding front strut bar.

1.2 Remove 4 torx screws holding cabin filter housing, remove filter.

1.3 Remove strut bar.

2. Drain fuel from lines

2.1 Unplug Fuse #54 from glove box. It should be a yellow 20A fuse.

2.2 Start car up and let engine stall. This will remove most of the fuel in your lines.

2.3 Reinstall the fuel pump fuse back in. Don’t start the car again or else you need to re-do this process over again.

3. Remove Air & Fuel Rail

3.1 Disconnect plenum-side breather valve via squeeze clip.

3.2 Disconnect breather valve on air rail.

3.3 Remove the 2 silver 10mm hex bolts on the air rail. First one is by the TPS sensor above cylinder 1. The second bolt is in the rear between cylinder 5 and 6. I had to use a swivel head to get to it.

3.4 Disconnect the vacuum tube at the very ar end of the air rail. Be very careful not to drop it down the engine bay as I did!

3.5 This step is going to be different for most of you. I have an E85 kit, so my plastic fuel injector harness cover piece was already detached. For those that are stock, you’ll need to unclip the plastic tabs remove. Don’t completely remove the cover, but just unclip it so the air and fuel rail can come out.

3.6 Use a pry bar against the the engine head to lift the air rail up. Start at the side closest to the front of the car. The air rail is connected via 6 plastic air valves that are pressure fitted via o-rings. Once you pry the first few ones apart, you can lift the remaining.

3.7 Remove all 6 air valves by twisting them out. Some will be stuck on the air rail and some on the throttle body. You should clean these before they go back on.

3.8 Now to the fuel rail. There are a total of 6 metal tabs holding in the injectors to the rail and one metal tab holding in the fuel feed line which is located between cylinder 5 and 6 in the rear. Use a flat head to pry the clips apart.

3.9 Pry the fuel rail as you did for the air rail. Injectors will pop out one by one.

3.10 Careful not to pull out the rail all the way just yet. You must disconnect each injector wiring harness.

4. Remove injectors

4.1 Eventually they will all pop out like this attached to the rail. To remove the injectors from the rail, just simply twist them off. They are pressure fitted via o-rings. Take note of the orientation of the injector plugs for re-installation.

5. Cleaning the injectors at RC Fuel Injection

As I mentioned earlier in this article, the stock injectors have a flow rate of 260 cc at 43 PSI. My average flow rate was 185.2 cc with the lowest being at 125 cc. What!

6. Installing injectors

Installing is the trickiest part of this DIY because since the injectors and air valves are pressure fitted with o-rings, it’s really hard to get those back in by pushing down.

6.1 Twist injectors into fuel rail and insert the metal clips you removed in step 3.8. Make sure the clips are seated properly as pictured below.

6.2 Apply some engine oil or silicone grease, in very small amounts, to the o-rings on the air valves to lubricate when installing the air rail back on. Twist in air valves onto throttle body.

6.3 Apply some engine oil or silicon grease to the injector o-rings as well. Dry pressure installation may damage your o-rings. Take the entire fuel rail assembly and install the injectors back in. Watch the injector nozzle alignment as you install. You’re going to need to wiggle each injector to make them slot right in. The 2 threaded metal tabs on the fuel rail will go behind the throttle body mount. Also keep an eye on the fuel feed line alignment between cylinders 5 and 6.

6.4 Once the injectors are in the hole, you’re going to need a good amount of top pressure to fit them in. In my case even with some lubricant, it was very difficult to get them in. I do not advise this method, but I had to get a small mallet to tap the fuel rail to push each injector in. One thing you should make sure to do is make the fuel rail go down evenly. Don’t push in one side completely and expect the other end to line up. Once properly seated, the fuel rail metal tab holes will line up with the throttle body.

6.5 Insert the metal clip for the fuel feed line.

6.6 Install the air rail back in. Same method as fuel rail.

6.7 Install the two 10mm bolts.

6.8 Install the rear vacuum hose back in. Turn the key to the 2nd position (which primes fuel into the lines) and check for fuel leaks.

6.9 If there are no fuel leaks, reverse install from the directions earlier to get everything back together. You’re done!

Here are the install DIY for our Quick-Release Adjustable Front Splitter Brackets and Front Race Splitter. You’re going to need to jack up the car and remove your bumper to do this install. The removal of the bumper support beam is also required. Models dating up to 2003 have the aluminum carrier and 2003.5 and up have the kevlar so make sure you check to see which one you have. This install will take about 1-2 hours. Everything is bolt-on and you just need basic tools. To get an idea of the bracket and splitter installation, first watch the quick-release demonstration video below.

Tools required

• 13mm socket
• 10mm socket and wrench
• 8mm wrench
• 1/4″ drill bit and drill
• 5/32 allen key
• Marker

Quick-Release Adjustable Front Splitter Brackets Parts list

Race Splitter Parts List

Splitter bracket install directions

1. Remove front bumper.

2. Remove aluminum or kevlar carrier from bumper with 13mm socket.

3. Remove front undertray.

4. Install U-Channel with the supplied (3) M6 12mm Hex Head Screws, (3) M6 12mm OD Washers, and (3) M6 Nylon-Insert Locknuts. You will install using the existing 3 OEM front brace holes that connected to the under tray. Line up the 10mm nuts in the channel first and slowly position it into place. Insert the 10mm bolts through the top of the 3 OEM front brace holes.

5. Install Steel Bumper Brackets on each side.

6. Install Steel Adjustment Brackets on each side using (8) M6 16mm Serrated-Flange Hex Head Screws, (8) M6 Nylon-Insert Flange Locknuts, and (8) M6 18mm OD Washers. You can preset the height for now in reference to how it’s shown in the picture. You’re going to need to micro-adjust the height in the last step, but this should be a good preset for running the ACS lip and stock OEM bumper.

7. Install Aluminum Feet with (4) M6 20mm Serrated-Flange Hex Head Screws and (4) M6 Nylon-Insert Flange Locknuts. Apply hand tight.

8. Observe the 3 cutouts on the Buildjournal Race Splitter. These are cut inwards to sit flush against the U-Channel.

9. Reinstall the bumper carrier and install 13mm OEM nuts.

10. Slide the splitter into the U-Channel. Double check to make sure the splitter sits flush and back against the U-Channel.

11. Align the splitter in the middle and hold pressure against the back of the U-Channel. Carefully raise the splitter up against the aluminum feet and mark the drill locations using a marker.

12. Use the (4) M6 18mm Hex Drive Flat Head Screws, (4) M6 18mm OD Washers, and (4) M6 Nylon-Insert Flange Locknuts to install splitter onto Aluminum Feet.

13. Check the top and bottom of the splitter to see if seating is still in proper position all the way against the back of the U-Channel. Tighten down the feet to the splitter.

14. Adjust the Steel Adjustment Brackets to set your desired height and tighten everything down. Install your bumper back on.

PRO TIP: Since I have my radiator shrouds removed, I can disconnect the splitters from the engine bay, top down. This makes it a super easy and fast removal whenever I need to get on the trailer or doing an oil change.